PURPOSE OF THE PRODUCT: Creates a floor finish with the following characteristics:
- Easier and less frequent cleaning than vacuuming carpet.
- Add another level of gloss to the existing surface.
- Enhance the slip resistance of a glossy sealer.
- Be so foolproof in its application it can be used by someone who does not, or can not, read the label instructions.
- Patch test a new application with a 3 foot by 3 foot section first. This should confirm that nothing is interfering with its ability to flow evenly to a clear, tough film.
- Be able to protect and enhance other manufacturer's sealers, however, always patch test first as some companies sealers will not accept a coating.
- Complete the ultimate stain protection system of the flooring material by providing another repelling barrier above, and in addition to, the repelling barrier of the sealer.
- Not need periodic stripping due to buildup
- Be non-yellowing
- Repel heel marks and scuffing.
- If stained under worst case situation (i.e. hot bacon grease), be spot stripped with Aldon "Insta-Clean" and easily patched.
- Be extremely inexpensive because it lasts so long and covers a lot of square footage.
- "Lifeguard" does all the same things for vinyl composition tile (VCT) as it does for a sealed surface.
- Not harmed by typical supermarket floor cleaners, but overly aggressive cleaners can make reapplication more frequent than necessary. Aldon Maintain will maximize the life of Lifeguard.
- Ammoniated cleaners will decrease life of Lifeguard and are more aggressive than necessary. Aldon Dust Whiz is much easier and safer.
- Power scrubbers are not needed, and if fact can reduce the longevity of the coating due to unnecessary abrasion. Abrasion from vacuum cleaner rotating brushes should be avoided.
- If, for some reason, you want to apply sealer after you have applied Lifeguard - the Lifeguard must be removed first. You do not want the Lifeguard coating between two layers of sealer as that will cause bonding problems.
Situations where you may not need Lifeguard:
- Walls and ceilings: As a walls or ceilings do not get the abuse of flooring, there is no reason to use "Lifeguard" in that application unless you want to create some gloss for reasons of appearance or additional protection. Also, it is much more difficult to apply a product like Lifeguard to a wall and much easier to apply a sealer. See for sealers that come in spray cans for the greatest ease of application to walls.
- Driveways: Although many people do use Lifeguard over the sealer used on their driveway - a driveway is an area of severe chemical and abrasive abuse. It may be easier to periodically touch up the sealer than to redo the Lifeguard coating.
- Showers and other wet areas: Lifeguard creates gloss. You do not want gloss on any floor surface that gets wet because gloss decreases slip resistance. This would be true for showers, tubs, swimming pool and spa decking, etc.
STAIN PROTECTION THEORY:
The ultimate goal is to protect the flooring and grout from stains.
The secondary goal is to protect the sealer. A sealer can be viewed as a "sacrificial" surface that can be spot repaired if necessary. However, it is nice to not have to repair the sealer.
"Lifeguard" is the ultimate level of defense of the flooring. It is a sacrificial surface that is easily spot repaired. It protects the sealer which protects the flooring. Under a worst case staining scenario you can spot repair the "Lifeguard" and even the sealer. What matters is that staining material did not reach the flooring.
This product is not a sealer. It is a top coating for already sealed, or otherwise non-absorbent surfaces. Therefore, grout must be sealed and non-absorbent before using "Lifeguard". See Same Day Sealer for the easiest to apply when doing grout joints only.
ITEMS OF INTEREST:
- Acrylic in a water base. Forms a tough film.
- Like all water based coatings, standing water can weaken the film. This means it can soften with long term (hours) of standing water. When softened, it can scratch off.
- Adheres to almost any surface, however, it must be a clean surface. A dirty or dusty surface is not good, because Lifeguard will adhere to the dust and the dust is not adhered to the floor.
- Not a sealer. Lifeguard is a coating over all sealed surfaces.
- Does not yellow or break down
- Milky on application, dries clear.
- Increases gloss one level from the existing. If little or no gloss increase is desired, see Aldon Tile Cover
- Added gloss reduces dirt trapping of textured, sealed surfaces
- Dries in 30 minutes
- After initial application, apply only to traffic dulled areas - blends in beautifully.
- Increases skid resistance on dry glossy sealers. Note: any gloss level is more slippery when wet. Lifeguard creates some gloss itself, therefore wetness on top of Lifeguard gloss is still slippery. See this issue in Problem Solving for more detail.
- Takes all the traffic wear so the sealer never needs to be repaired.
- Increases floor stain resistance to the maximum possible.
- Easily patched if worst case situation occurs.
- "Breathes" out subsurface water vapor.
- Use felt pads on furniture feet to prevent scratching as with any film or coating.
It is true of sealers from any manufacturer, including Aldon, that a glossy surface will eventually show some dulling in traffic patterns. The Lifeguard coating will protect all manufacturers sealers from traffic wear. When the Lifeguard eventually shows traffic wear (not any faster than the underlying sealer would have) simply pour and spread in the traffic pattern only, not the whole floor. Thirty minutes later, you have a renewed floor.
We are not aware of any product available that is truly stain proof. The underlying Aldon sealer is extremely stain resistant and so is the "Lifeguard" top coating. It would be wonderful if a sealer could be stain-proof, but nobody truly makes one. The real world situation is that whatever is on the floor may someday have something spilled on it that will cause a stain. This is where "Lifeguard" comes in with the concept of a "sacrifice coating". When the inevitable occurs, it should be only the "Lifeguard" that has stained. Unlike sealers, "Lifeguard" is formulated to be easily spot removed and replaced. This is the most reasonable and honest answer to potential worst case staining.
See the product label reproduction below for all the information on surface preparation, application technique, drying time, etc. This label reproduction will always be the most current. Because we are constantly improving information and passing on tips from users, this could be more up to date than the label on the container.
How long to wait before applying Lifeguard?
See the label below, but basically you need to know that the underlying sealer is fully cured before applying "Lifeguard". The state of the sealer cure is determined by reading the sealer label for the statement about drying/curing time, then adjust for your particular job conditions.
If you do not see the results you expect:
It is not a problem with the product! (They all do what we say they do!)
- Your conditions may have been misdiagnosed! (It can happen, even with all the information we provide.)
- The surface conditions (absorption rate, contaminants, temperatures, etc.) are other than thought.
- And/or - it was not applied per label instructions! (The instructions are designed to overcome items 1 and 2 above, and overcome job conditions of which you might not be aware.)
for tips on this product.
REPRODUCTION OF THE BACK LABEL:
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